In time this page will feature some of the many articles Sally has written for various publications. For the moment we have a couple of pieces featuring seasonal plants or seasons themselves.  These articles originally appeared in the Country Gardener magazine.

Changing Places

 

It’s the anticipation of spring that keeps gardeners on edge all winter: that daydream of bumper crops of crisp sweet vegetables, of borders spilling over with soft scented flowers, and hedgerows of luminescent green.  But all this imagined beauty only happens by thorough planning and preparation. 

 

With a new garden it can be difficult to know where to start.  Visiting a big flower show, browsing through the garden books and magazines, and watching TV makeover programmes can often serve merely to confuse even a seasoned gardener, still more perplex the novice.  Photographs are taken in flattering light with lenses that compress the view and make the borders appear full.  Show gardens are ephemeral constructions made especially for the week of the show.  In real time in a real back garden they may not work, and take little account of awkward plots and the constraints of our busy lives.  Certainly many are inspirational, if not aspirational, but when faced with the unmown, unweeded reality the hard cold practicalities can be daunting.  There’s so much to consider: the soil type, the aspect of the garden, local climate, views and privacy.  Then there’s whether to have somewhere for children to play, to grow vegetables, have a barbecue; and how much time, and money, you want to spend on the garden.

 

This is where a garden designer could step in and save time and money wasted on short-term solutions and inappropriate planting.   A good designer will not just impose his or her own garden plan on the site, but will sit down with you and investigate your needs, and your desires, and come up with new ideas that are practical and that fit your lifestyle.   Once a design has been decided upon the work is best done in the winter, before the end of March.  Then all the mess of workmen’s barrows, piles of stone and muddy footprints is cleared away, the soil starts to warm up and spring will trigger the new garden into life. 

 

Sometimes when spring arrives, despite all the work and worry and expense, the new garden can look a little sparse.  Those mid-winter dreams of overflowing borders have awoken to beds of soil punctuated with small young plants.  Before rushing to the garden centre for trays of annuals to fill up the yawning gaps pause to consider that in a year or two these juvenile perennials and shrubs will grow up and knit together, provided they are given room to expand and are not subsumed under blankets of bedding plants.  Far better to mulch the beds with ornamental grade bark to prevent weed growth, retain the moisture and condition the soil, and make notes of where to plant bulbs in autumn for next year.  And then to wait, smug in the knowledge that each year the new garden will improve according to plan.

 

But, as any owner of a mature garden will testify, sooner or later the dynamics of plant life will catch up.  Those young saplings grow and cast shade, the hedge becomes greedy and starves the borders below, and the battle for space amongst the perennials has elbowed out the weaklings.   The winter months are the time to rescue strugglers and move them to a less competitive environment, leaving the space clear to improve the soil and plant more appropriately.  This is the moment to turn to the gardening books and catalogues and identify the right plants.  

 

Or perhaps try a new variety of an old favourite.  For dramatic impact in shade Brunnera ‘Jack Frost’, launched at Chelsea few years ago, has proved to be a remarkably good garden plant with white-veined leaves and blue flowers.    Or try Heuchera ‘Caramel’ with shining amber foliage, or x Heucherella ‘Stoplight’ with large bright yellow leaves in spring and a blood-red central splash. 

 

The seed catalogues are also full of tempting new beauties, and providing you have at least a cool windowsill, if not a greenhouse, growing from seed is above all economical.  Thermostatically controlled propagating trays with cloches are ideal for early sowing of Nicotiana and Petunias in early February.  Set the thermostat to the temperature recommended on the seed envelope, keep the vents closed initially.  As germination begins open the vents and finally remove the cloche altogether.   When the seedlings have a pair of true leaves, gently remove them with an old table fork, holding them by the leaf.  Prick them out into fresh soil at the recommended distance, water them in and grow them on until they are ready to harden off and plant out in April.

 

Vegetable gardens start afresh each season and every year there is a wide assortment of new vegetables to try.  This year Plants of Distinction are introducing a prettily striped aubergine, ‘Listada de Gandia’.   It reliably produces very thin-skinned fruits 80-90 days from transplanting the seedling.   Try frying them whole with garlic, tomatoes and curry spices.  And sow a potful of their dwarf pea ‘Half Pint’ to put in the middle of an outside table in summer for children, and adults, to nibble like crisps.  Plants of Distinction are giving away a packet free with every order.

 

Winter daydreams of burgeoning plots, however, can and do fade with the reality of spring and the population rise of pests of every shape and size.   Top of many country gardeners’ hate-list is the rabbit.   Just one can decimate a row of newly planted cabbages in minutes, and a whole vegetable garden overnight.  There is little that will deter them, with one exception.   A rabbit fence.   This should be of fine wire mesh, at least 1.5m wide.  During the winter make a ditch 30cm deep and 30cm wide, outside and along the boundary posts of your vegetable patch, or whole garden if practical.  Line the ditch with the wire mesh along the bottom and up the boundary posts.  Nail the mesh to the posts all along the boundary and back-fill the ditch.   The finished fence is L-shaped with the bottom edge buried facing outwards and the right-angle underground at the bottom of the posts.  The rabbit may try to dig under the fence but be thwarted by the mesh, and only super-rabbit will be able to jump over the top.  The only other deterrent goes by the name of Jack Russell, and even he has the occasional nap.

 

Then with all these plans and projects underway, if not complete, put down the books and the catalogues; clean off and hang up the spade and spend a few minutes walking down the lane to look for the wild snowdrops, the catkins and the pussy willows.  Spring comes sooner than you think.

 

 

Winter Aconites

Golden Chalices

 

Under the trees, amongst the Lenten roses, the primroses and the snowdrops, winter aconites bespangle the February garden like a Botticelli painting.

 

It is a delightful effect that is easier to maintain than to establish.  The corms of Eranthis hyemalis, the winter aconite, dislike drying out and perhaps the best way to begin is to beg a few from a gardening friend when they are visible and ‘in the green’ rather than to buy desiccated corms in the autumn.  Pop a little stake or a label wherever they are planted to avoid burying them underneath another treasure looking for an empty space later on after they have died down.  

 

Eranthis ‘Guinea Gold’ has extra large flowers that flower in March, but it too will happily colonise free-draining alkaline soil, especially under horse-chestnut trees.  E.cilicicus from the hills of Turkey and northern Iraq is similar but has narrower leaf segments. Its exotic origin means that it is more tolerant of being dry in the summer.

 

Once the little gold chalices in their green Toby frills appear they will happily colonise the shady places and, as the 18th century Scotsman, Sir John Hill observed. 

 “paint the face of winter” on sunny days.